• Arts & Culture - Heritage - History - Places

    The Jain Temple at Sultan Battery, Wayanad

    We had earlier written about the Jain temples in Kerala and Wayanad in particular and also about the connection with the Hindu temples. So, this time when we heard about the Jain temple in Sultan Battery, we decided to have a quick look. The Sultan Battery Jain temple is right at the middle of the town and is maintained by the ASI. After many Jains and Buddhists left Kerala between 800 and 1000 AD, some families seem to have stayed back in Wayanad. Also, it is said that in the 15th century, many businessmen and merchants in the region were of…

  • Birdwatching - Flora - Heritage - Hotels - Places

    Edakkal Hermitage and India’s only Cave Restaurant

    Hermitage, by definition is a remote, small dwelling for living in solitude. Down the the slopes of Ambukuthy hills in Wayanad and near the pre-historic caves of Edakkal, Hermitage seems to be the right name for this resort. Cosy cottages built around boulders and nestled among coffee plants and under the foliage of large trees, the wilderness has a homely feel to it as well. May be because, we grew up in Kerala. Or may be it was the absence of the typical resort like setting with far too many artificial props and service staff running around. The non-intrusive service…

  • Adventure - Nature's Wonders - Places

    The Other Meenmutty Waterfalls in Wayanad

    For some strange reason, ‘Meenmutty’ seems to be a common name for many waterfalls in Kerala’s western ghats. We have heard of at least three—two in Wayanad and one in Thiruvananthapuram. “Meen Mutty’ roughly translates to ‘fish blocked.’ However, we did not know that there are two Meenmutty falls in Wayanad till we reached the picturesque Banasura Sagar dam. We were earlier told that the famous Meenmutty falls near Kalpetta, a three-tired waterfall and the second largest in Kerala, has been closed for safety reasons. And we had reconciled to it. As we drove into the parking area of Banasura…

  • Hotels - People - Places

    Pugmarks Jungle Lodge: Nestled in the Wilderness

    Darkness had fallen by the time we were in Mananthawady. As we passed the road to Kattikulam, the village was getting ready to sleep. Night-time visitors (read wildlife) would have been getting ready for their night-out. We reached the electric-fenced resort and instantly got charmed by the wilderness around. There couldn’t have been a better choice of stay than Pugmarks Jungle Resort as we explored Mananthawady and the surrounding attractions. Templatised resorts rarely tempt us. There were plenty of them to choose when we were planning our Wayanad trip. But we wanted a place that is more grounded and closer…

  • Adventure - Nature's Wonders - Places - Treks

    Irpu Falls: Crowded but Charming

    Going to Irpu Falls was one of the spur-of-the-moment decisions that occur far too often in our trips. As with most of them, this too turned out to be a good one. Wayanad has plenty of waterfalls, so we did not consider Irpu in Coorg, Karnataka (close to the border of Wayanad) as a to-do destination. But we had time to kill till the safari starts at Tholpetty Wildlife Sanctuary, and Irpu is just about 10 km from Tholpetty. The road turns narrow and bumpy as we approached Irpu and contrary to our expectations, the parking lot was full. But we did not feel the crowd during the…

  • Hikes - Places

    Makkimala, a Hidden Gem of a Hill

    Travelling with no pre-fixed itinerary leaves you with opportunities for impromptu visits to interesting places that are mostly known to locals only. We got a few such opportunities during our one-week in Wayanad. Makkimala hike was suggested to us by Gopa Varma, owner of Pugmarks Jungle Lodge. He and his friends had visited the place previous day and had a nice time. Thomas, our guide for the hike, waited for us at the roadside. He had taken half-a-day leave from his job as a driver to be our guide. The unremarkable mud track at the beginning does not give any…

  • People - Places

    The New Face of ‘Migration’

    (This post was originally published at The True Pretender) We met Manoj at the Pugmarks Jungle Lodge in Wayanad during our stay there. As the service staff, he served us food, cleaned the rooms, carried our luggage, and was available on call all the time. His broken Malayalam made us a little curious. But he understood whatever we said in Malayalam. Manoj represents the new face of migration.  For a state whose people have been migrating to the Gulf since early 70s, this is like coming a full circle of sorts. Increased money flow to the state resulting in a consumer…

  • Places - Treks

    The ‘Hartal’ Hike in Wayanad

    One week in Kerala. There has to be a ‘hartal’ or ‘bandh.’ During our one-week Wayanad trip, there was a ‘hartal’ in the district, to mark protest against Kasturi Rangan Report and/or Gadgil Committee Report on Western Ghats conversation policies. (More on this later.) Since this affected our travel plans, we were a little disappointed at first. But not for long. Our resort owner Gopa suggested a walk through the forests, paddy fields, and tribal villages to get a sense of the real Wayanad. He and his friend George, resort manager Shinoj, and a local farmer Karunan chettan took us…

  • Arts & Culture - History - Places - the great driving challenge

    The Aftereffects of Searching for Jain Temples

    One of the stories from our TGDC trail was about our search for old Jain temples in Wayanad in Kerala. There are a few of them, either taken over by ASI or left to crumble, like the one we managed to visit. After visiting the place and reading a little more about Jain temples in Kerala, a realisation dawned on us – Most temples in Kerala were earlier Jain or Buddhist temples. We had earlier read that the famous Sabarimala temple (with close to 5 crore visitors a year, it is supposed to be the second biggest annual pilgrimage after…