• Adventure - Heritage - Hikes - History - Nature's Wonders - Places - Sanctuaries

    A Hampi Itinerary – Something for Everyone

    Never perhaps in the history of the world has such havoc been wrought, and wrought suddenly, on so splendid a city, teeming with a wealthy and industrious population in the full plentitude of prosperity one day, and on the next seized, pillaged, and reduced to ruins, amid scenes of savage massacre and horrors begging description. –Robert Sewell, A Forgotten Empire. History and mythology intertwines effortlessly as local guides narrates the story of Hampi,  once a world class city and trade centre of 14th century, built and ruled by the kings spanning four dynasties starting with Harihara and Bukka. The mythological…

  • Places

    Goa, but not the Beaches

    Go to Goa. Spend a week. But not a single beach. Then that could have been the new definition of Original Sin. But that’s a sin worth committing. This time we didn’t spend a week. And we did go to many beaches. But we also explored the other side of Goa a little bit. The one that most tourists give a skip. Unless he or she is fascinated with hills and forests. Overlooking Goa’s large coastline and covering a good part of the state is its share of the Western Ghats eco system. Bordering Maharashtra and Karnataka, these lush rainforests…

  • Arts & Culture - Heritage - History - Places

    The Red Town of Karnataka – Pattadakkal

    In the middle of nowhere in rural Karnataka is the remains of (perhaps) a glorious past. Where nicely chiseled stones and beautiful sculptures tell you million stories. Hundreds of unnamed craftsmen with their skillful hands and genius minds lived and died for their kings and queens, while building and leaving behind stupendous architectural marvels that will remind us not of their glories, but of their rulers. As we wander through the wonder that is Pattadakkal, we imagined the scene where hundreds of workers in the rumble and tumble creating poetry out of shapeless rocks. Pattadakkal (Pattadakalu in Kannada), also known…

  • Arts & Culture - Heritage - History - Places

    In Search of the Hidden Kadamba Gods

    What excites us most in our trips is the last-minute additions or diversions in the plan. At Belgaum, through a common friend, we met a businessman who has interests in history and architecture. And he suggested that we check out Halashi and gave the directions to reach there. Obviously, not many people have heard about the place. Halashi is a small village about 42 km from Belgaum. At 27 km from Belgaum city, on the Belguam-Dandeli road is Khanapur town. Halashi is about 15 km from Khanapur. With the western ghats as backdrop, the road to Halashi is scenic. Halashi…

  • Nature's Wonders - Places

    Fast. Furious. Gokak

    Every trip has interesting unplanned detours. This time, for our 5-day Karnataka trip, we had kept the itinerary completely open. Only return tickets from Belgaum to Mumbai were booked. We had some broad idea of the places we want to visit, but ‘when’ and ‘how’ to visit were left to be decided during the trip. So, after Badami and nearby places, before hitting Belgaum, we decided to take a detour. We had the luxury of time. A long day on road with multiple modes of transport followed. Badami to Bagalkote by state transport bus. Bagalkote to Yaragatti again by bus.…

  • Arts & Culture - Heritage - History - Places

    Mahakuta, Badami

    An ancient temple complex at about 15 km from Badami, Mahakuta is part of the travel circuit of Badami–Aihole–Pattadakkal. Surrounded by hills with bushy forests, the complex was built by the Chalukyas and is the seat of Shaivite faith. The complex has a large number of small- and medium-sized temples scattered around a pond (or a small lake – Vishnu Pushkarni). Only one of the temples has daily poojas. Since we visited the place around mid-morning and not during any festivals, there was hardly anyone and was very peaceful. Some of the temple ruins were on the hill in the…

  • History - Nature's Wonders - Places

    The Chalukya Heartland – Badami

    Some times the history, the geography, the weather and the people of a place adds to the dynamics of a travel experience, often enriching it. That’s what happened to us at Badami. After being to Ajanta, Ellora, Kanheri, Pandavleni and the Elephanta cave temples, we have remained overawed by the sheer ability of human beings to ‘create.’ Intricate carvings, artworks, massive lifelike statues, astounding temples carved out of rock … all thousands of years back, without any sophisticated tools and technologies. Badami was no different and only added to that awe. The carvings were fuller and realistic, perhaps because of…

  • Nature's Wonders - Places

    Jog Falls / Linganamakki Dam

    Lashing rains. Howling wind. Western ghats can’t get better (and dangerous) than in the monsoons. We were on the Sirsi–Jog falls leg of our Western-Ghats-on-road exploration. Jog Falls is the highest waterfall in India. The Sharavathy river takes a roaring plunge over 250 meters to bottom without any breaks (hence untiered). The river splits into four streams and each of the falls are named Raja, Roarer, Rocket, and Rani. Jog Falls is an experience—one that words refuse to come out to explain it. It is mighty, scary, heavenly, the works! On one side is the thunderously roaring water falling to…

  • People - Places

    Dandeli: A Home Stay at Malgudi

    A five-light junction. A cow and a calf wandering around. A small bus stop. A public tap. Two or three shops. A slice from the enchanting Malgudi town was coming alive, at Kulgi barely 12 kms away from Dandeli town.   Arun Bandekar’s Hotel Apoorva is an extension of his small, non descript shop selling some snacks for the school children and perhaps a bit of grocery for the locals. Arun, who came from Sawantwadi in Maharasthra to Dandeli some three decades ago, runs his enterprise along with his wife.   The Bandekars’ hospitality and culinary expertise eventually made Hotel…

  • Places

    Dandeli: Nagzari Trek

    In two days , we were done with the touristy stuff (the safari) and the explorer stuff (the extended crocodile trail). Yet there was a feeling of incompleteness. Two days in a forest country! The ever fascinating western ghats and rain forests. And yet! Something was missing! While we contemplated leaving Dandeli for a drive to Karwar, through some more dense forests and the Anshi National Park, on the advice of our guide, we checked at the Kulgi forest camp on the possibilities of doing a deep jungle trek. The camp in charge, Mr Naik was helpful and gave us…

  • Places

    Dandeli: A Crocodile Tracking Trail. Also Some Birding

    Crocodiles, it is said, prefer dirty water. And the West Coast Paper mill at the banks of Kali River in Dandeli is pushing it down the river all the time. We are parking the environmental debate aside for the time being. Rajesh (our guide) had been warming us up on the idea of a short trail spotting crocodiles in the river. So we set aside a half day for this. A little over a kilometer from Dandeli town is a small village temple by the banks of the river. We started our trail through private farm lands, moved along the…

  • Nature's Wonders - Places

    Dandeli: Syntheri Rocks

    There is a warning board which says ’12 dead till now. Please do not add to it’. And there is a lone watchman by its side  – Lost in his thoughts and bidding time looking at the ferociously flowing water deep down. Deep inside the jungle, in the middle of nowhere. . Syntheri is a good 30-km drive from Dandeli town. The narrow and pot-holed roads meandering through the forests rarely have sun rays touching the ground even on sunny days. Apart from langurs and monkeys, all we saw were a couple of snakes crossing the road. But trampled bamboos…

  • Fun

    Another Guess. What Is a Cabel Duck?

    Ask any biologist or an expert in ducks. They will tell you that there are a variety of ducks. Appleyard, Crested Ducks, Indian Runners, etc. But what is a Cabel Duck? Even experts are at a loss.   We found this board in a hotel in Mangalore. If you can guess this, leave a comment.

  • Places

    Pilikula: True to Its Name

    It is unlikely to see really energetic animals in a zoo. Especially the big cats. We don’t recollect any images of healthy animals from the zoos we have visited earlier. But Pilikula Biological Park in Mangalore surprised us with its exuberant tigers. There were four of them. And it was the mating season. Understandably, excitement abound. One pair was frolicking in the water and the other on the land chasing each other and taking a few breaks to watch the ones in water. For a change, some lively tigers in a zoo instead of the usual sad, emaciated ones!  …