• Food - Heritage - History - Hotels - Places

    Ragusa – Welcome to Sicily

    An old Italian lady who speaks only Italian, a young Italian settled in Switzerland who could speak English and an Indian couple.  All in a small town in Sicily, at an almost-deserted bus terminus. A rain-drenched evening that welcomed darkness without embracing twilight. We started experiencing the warmth of Italian hospitality right after we got down at the upper Ragusa bus terminal. We had booked a hotel at Ragusa Ibla, the old city. The untimely rain meant we had to find shelter in a small shed at the terminal. We asked a lady for directions to the hotel but she…

  • Nature's Wonders - Places

    Make Your Own Road – More (Moray) Plains

    Ladakh and the Himalayas never cease to excite and surprise us. Bidding adieu to the Tso Moriri wetlands and its lovely cranes and bar-headed geese, we set out to Sarchu. Before Sarchu enthralls us, we find thrill and awe en route! A plateau at a height of 4,000 m, flanked by mountains. The road is what we make our way through. A driver’s delight and dare! We were at More (Mor-ay) Plains, the world’s highest plateau.  This section stretches more than 50 km. Vehicles at times run parallel, spewing dust all over. A lone biker speeds off to nirvana. The…

  • Publications

    Hit That Trail

    Happy to tell our readers that we were part of a team commissioned recently by India Today & Maharashtra Tourism to publish an Annual Volume on travel called India Today Maharashtra Tourism Guide. Our contribution was an essay on all Trekking options in Maharashtra which was covered under a section called Special Interests. The issue was out in August and is available with a cover price of Rs. 100/- We were particularly happy since we have been travelling across Maharashtra ever since we came to Mumbai and feel previleged in getting this opportunity.

  • Nature's Wonders - Places

    Fast. Furious. Gokak

    Every trip has interesting unplanned detours. This time, for our 5-day Karnataka trip, we had kept the itinerary completely open. Only return tickets from Belgaum to Mumbai were booked. We had some broad idea of the places we want to visit, but ‘when’ and ‘how’ to visit were left to be decided during the trip. So, after Badami and nearby places, before hitting Belgaum, we decided to take a detour. We had the luxury of time. A long day on road with multiple modes of transport followed. Badami to Bagalkote by state transport bus. Bagalkote to Yaragatti again by bus.…

  • Arts & Culture - Heritage - History - Places

    Mahakuta, Badami

    An ancient temple complex at about 15 km from Badami, Mahakuta is part of the travel circuit of Badami–Aihole–Pattadakkal. Surrounded by hills with bushy forests, the complex was built by the Chalukyas and is the seat of Shaivite faith. The complex has a large number of small- and medium-sized temples scattered around a pond (or a small lake – Vishnu Pushkarni). Only one of the temples has daily poojas. Since we visited the place around mid-morning and not during any festivals, there was hardly anyone and was very peaceful. Some of the temple ruins were on the hill in the…

  • History - Nature's Wonders - Places

    The Chalukya Heartland – Badami

    Some times the history, the geography, the weather and the people of a place adds to the dynamics of a travel experience, often enriching it. That’s what happened to us at Badami. After being to Ajanta, Ellora, Kanheri, Pandavleni and the Elephanta cave temples, we have remained overawed by the sheer ability of human beings to ‘create.’ Intricate carvings, artworks, massive lifelike statues, astounding temples carved out of rock … all thousands of years back, without any sophisticated tools and technologies. Badami was no different and only added to that awe. The carvings were fuller and realistic, perhaps because of…

  • Nature's Wonders - Places

    If Pangong Is a Dream, Tso Moriri Is Ecstacy

    Elated after the rafting on the Indus, sad to leave Leh, but with vibrant anticipation of what lies ahead, we set out for further journey travel through the incredible landscape. Dry. Arid. Cold. And no habitation for miles and miles. Tso Moriri was the destination for the day. That meant getting back to Leh from the Sangam (Indus–Zanskar) and covering another 205 km. The drive was pretty hard through mostly non-existent roads. Passing some remote villages, we reached the Mahe check post, here there was security check and verification of permits. Beyond the check post, it was once again trusting…

  • Nature's Wonders - Places

    River Rafting @ Indus

    We woke up on day five of our Himalayan safari brimming with excitement. Rafting on the Indus was the highlight of the day. Sadly, our last day in Leh, too. We had been following the course of Indus and just got to dip our feet in the river on the way from Srinagar to Kargil. Rafting started at Indus, about a few kilometers outside Leh; the destination being the confluence of Indus and Zanskar, which we had viewed from top on the way to Leh from Uley Topko. We were greeted in the raft by the raft guide by splashing…

  • Places

    Pangong Lake

    The descent from Chang La reveals a stark landscape that brings awe and fear. Snow-clad mountains again turn dry and arid. The sandy river bed reminds of a desert. The long, winding roads are often breached by the brooks formed by melting snow. Camps of Changpa nomads are seen on the slopes. These nomads rear yak, sheep, goats and horses. Yak milk (rather nak milk, the correct name for the female ones) is used to make cheese and the goats are sheared for the prized cashmere wool. On the way to the Lake, at Darbuk, is a memorial to Indian…

  • Nature's Wonders - Places

    Chang La

    Though we were on the lap of the mighty Himalayas for four days, snow was beyond our reach. We had longingly watched the glaciers from afar on our way from Srinagar to Leh. Our wish to play in snow was finally granted at Chang La or Chang Pass. At 17,586 ft, Chang La is the third highest motorable road in the world, the first and second being Khardung La, on the Leh–Nubra Valley road, and Tanglang La, on the Leh–Manali road, respectively. En route to Pangong Lake, past the Shey village, Thikse Monastery, take a left turn at the military…

  • Nature's Wonders - Places

    Jog Falls / Linganamakki Dam

    Lashing rains. Howling wind. Western ghats can’t get better (and dangerous) than in the monsoons. We were on the Sirsi–Jog falls leg of our Western-Ghats-on-road exploration. Jog Falls is the highest waterfall in India. The Sharavathy river takes a roaring plunge over 250 meters to bottom without any breaks (hence untiered). The river splits into four streams and each of the falls are named Raja, Roarer, Rocket, and Rani. Jog Falls is an experience—one that words refuse to come out to explain it. It is mighty, scary, heavenly, the works! On one side is the thunderously roaring water falling to…

  • History - Places

    Lesser-Known Delhi – Mehrauli Archaeological Park

    It was William Dalrymple’s ‘The Last Mughal’ that triggered our curiosity about the history of Delhi. Not that we were not aware of Delhi’s historical significance. Unfortunately, Delhi brings to our mind all its negatives—lack of safety, extreme heat or cold and the like. When we did our first ever trip to Delhi as ‘travellers,’ we realised 3-4 days is not just enough to explore the city and experience its history. Even as the regular must-see destinations filled up our itinerary, we were on the lookout for the not-so-common destinations. That’s how we stumbled upon the Mehrauli Archeological Park. Being…

  • Places

    Grassroutes: Connecting Rural and Urban India

    A beaming youth welcomes us to Purushwadi, applying red sindoor on our foreheads and adorning our heads with the typical Maharashtrian headgear, the Gandhi topi. Each gets a flower, too. We are at Purushwadi for the two-day Navratra celebration, a part of the rural tourism initiatives by Grassroutes. After the sleepy journey on the early morning Kasara local, the jeep ride to the tribal village Purushwadi in Bhandardhara excites us as the jeep leaves the highway and takes the country roads. Traversing the meandering roads becomes more thrilling when we climb on to the top of the jeep. We try…

  • Birdwatching - Nature's Wonders - Places

    8 hours. 100+ Different Birds. Bliss…

    “My heart was brimming with the longing: to travel all those miles, sometimes nonstop, and come to your place. The urge was so strong, I couldn’t resist it. Oh! Just thinking about wallowing in the cool waters, relishing the scrumptious food aplenty, meeting friends from across the world, made me do a little jig. But where did it all go? I thought I lost my way. Hell no! I am at the right spot, but the marshy expanse of water is no where in sight. A few early birds were hanging around. Where do we go now after having flown…

  • History - Places

    The Submarine Museum

    As kids, like many of us, we were awed by the concept of submarine – something that can travel under the water. And we were under the impression that submarines are a 20th century invention. Yes, the modern submarines were made in later half of 20th century. But efforts to travel under water have been made as early as 325 BC. (A 16th-century Islamic painting depicting Alexander the Great being lowered in a glass submersible. From Wikipedia) Museums have the ability pull us back into the past. The displays recreate history and invoke awe and wonder. Two back-to-back museum visits…

  • Food - People - Places

    Dosas. Only 36 Varieties Available

    What do ‘Volvo’, ‘Bheeman’, ‘Paper egg butter’, ‘Navanandana’, ‘Duck Lasoon’ and ‘Ruby Pai’ have in common ? Seemingly unrelated? Not until you visit the famed ‘Pai Brothers Thattukada’ in Cochin (Kochi or Ernakulam). These all different dosas among the fast food joint’s 36 varieties of dosas. The only place in the world one can get such varied types of dosas. Spending the New Year night away from home meant more travels for us in 2010. Without planning for it, in 2011 New Year also we were not at our home. Hopefully this year also, we will be footloose. The first…

  • Food - Hotels - Places

    Four Days in Andhra and No Andhra Food in Sight

    When travel turns to be an ‘industry’, it comes with all the perils of standardisation. ‘One-day package’, ‘two-day package’ with a set list of things to see and do. Hotel staff rarely knows places other than these. Most taxi drivers insist there are no other interesting places. Not to mention the standardised Punjabi menu most restaurants offer. After returning from Araku valley to Vizag city, our choice of Rushikonda beach resort turned out to be a good. On a hillock overlooking the beach, this APTDC resort offers comfortable stay. We had figured out a few places in and around Vizag…

  • Arts & Culture - Places

    More on Araku Valley and the Friday Market

    The sprawling fields of oilseed plants form a carpet of yellow flowers in the valley. Making it the more exquisite are the sunlight and the shadows cast by the clouds. Araku Valley is indeed about simple beauties and timeless pleasures. The Friday Market The Araku town comes alive on Fridays as the tribal men and women come to the town to sell their produce and buy their grocery and other stuff for the week. From salt, rice, vegetables, sweets and savouries to bangles, cloths, bags, soaps, seeds, knives and vessels, this weekly market is one-stop shop for all your needs…

  • Nature's Wonders - Places

    Borra Caves: Some Chemistry, a Little Biology, a Bit of Mythology. Whatever, It’s Magical!

    An architecture marvel created by world’s best architect. How else we describe this amazing, stupendous, phenomenal creation of nature! Considered as one of India’s longest caves, Borra Caves is also the deepest, extending up to 80 m. Lit with a few halogen lamps just enough to create visibility for the damp pathways, the setting appears to be a scene from an Indiana Jones movie. Or at times we thought we were in an alien land. We are in fact wordless to describe the experience of Borra Caves and no photographs can capture its real magnificence. Partially decomposed organic matter creates…

  • Places

    Welcome to Eastern Ghats – Tyda

    We have not come out of the magic spell that Western Ghats casts on nature lovers.  And we will never be able to come out of it. Yet, the Eastern Ghats, which run parallely to the east cost of India, from West Bengal in the north to Tamilnadu in the south, have been seducing us for some time. Not as tall as the Western Ghats,  these are discontinuous ranges with a few hill stations thrown in. (map courtesy:  wikipedia) Araku Valley had been on our radar for more than a year. Known for its highly fertile soil, sprawling fields, tribal…

  • Hotels - Places

    Himalayan Safari Tales # 9 – Kaal Hotel & Shanti Stupa

    Tucked away from the bustling Leh town, Kaal hotel played host to us for two days. Well-appointed rooms with a touch of traditional charm, very friendly staff, and a beautiful garden and lawn saw us relaxing a bit after the hectic journey for three days. Complete with a prayer room and meditation hall, rooms at Kaal offers a fantastic view of the Zanskar ranges. Being in the ground floor rooms, we couldn’t enjoy this view, but compensated for it from the terrace. The shopping spree that had a weak start in Srinagar picked up momentum in Leh, with a visit…

  • Places

    Himalayan Safari Tales # 8 – Alchi Gompa

    The narrow cemented path and the unremarkable mud houses did not impress us. We were at Alchi Monastery, our first monastery visit, and we expected an awe-inspiring introduction to Tibetan Buddhism. Little did we know about the marvelously adorned walls inside the mud houses! (The road to Alchi) Unlike most other monasteries in Ladakh that are located on hillsides at an elevation, Alchi is situated on the plains. Built in twelfth century, Alchi’s temples are believed to be abandoned around fifteenth century. Maybe, that’s why the magnificent murals are still intact as Alchi escaped the eyes of invaders. (Farming in…

  • Places

    Himalayan Safari Tales # 7 – Of Religion & Beliefs

    After Nimu and Magnetic  Hill, a few miles before reaching Leh is the famous Pathar Saheb Gurudwara. Maintained by Indian Army, this Gurudwara is a well-known pilgrim destination for the Sikhs. This was our first ever visit to a Gurudwara. There are two stories about this temple, though the one surrounding Guru Nanak is more prominent. The story is that Guru Nanak arrived here in 1517 after his sermon in the Sumer mountain. A wicked demon who was troubling the local populace, rolled a boulder down from the top of a mountain to kill the meditating Guru. The boulder apparently…

  • Birdwatching - Places - Treks

    A Short Trek to Vyagreshwar

    An ancient Shiva temple on a hilltop. Reaching there involves a medium trek. A waterfall atop adds to the excitement. The trek, organised by Nature Knights, had the added attraction of birding at Uran. Taking more time than expected at Uran meant a delayed start for the trek. Our bus driver was not sure if the minibus would climb the narrow, steep roads to the base village. So we got out to reduce weight and walked one kilometer or so to the village. After shedding our weight, the bus also made it to the village. After a short photo op…

  • Uncategorized

    The Farmers’ Market Returns

    Excited on hearing about the restart of the Farmers’ Market after the monsoon break, we set aside half a Sunday to explore the market. However, we didn’t get enough from the visit for all the excitement built up beforehand. A neat concept ideated and implemented by Kavita Mukhi, the Farmers’ market connects organic farmers across Maharashtra to the organic produce enthusiasts of Mumbai. Season 2 of this well-received event was held last Sunday at Nilgiri Garden, Bandra, Mumbai. We walked in to the market a good two hours after its opening, only to be disappointed. Maybe, our expectations were too…

  • Nature's Wonders - Places

    Himalayan Safari Tales # 6 – Defying Gravity or Optical Illusion?

    Two days into the arid cold desert with clear blue skies, dry mountains with snow-capped peaks, deep valleys and gorges, roaring rivers… Ladakh has got into us. Mesmerizing would be an understatement. There is something about the region that evoked mixed emotions in us—awe, fear, humility, ecstasy… intoxication by the mystic setting. So, when we stopped by Magnetic Hill, a place which defies gravity, the magic simply amazed us. There was no logical questioning….. It was yet another phenomenon of this magical landscape called Ladakh. At about 40 odd kilometers before reaching Leh and ahead of the Zanskar-Indus sangam in…

  • Arts & Culture

    Your Moment Is Waiting

    Kerala Tourism’s new three-minute advertisement movie, Your Moment is Waiting, has already become talk of the town. The film was recently featured at Saatchi Gallery in London. Among those who attended include soccer star Didier Drogba, former England striker Gary Linekar, Olympian Christine Ohuruogu, Swaraj Paul, Rolling Stone’s lead singer Mick Jagger’s daughter and former model Jade Jagger, and other celebrities (report in Economic Times and The Hindu). The film will also be shown in all movie halls in London. The film, directed by Prakash Varma of the ZooZoo fame, is quite different from the typical destination advertising movies. It…

  • Nature's Wonders - Places

    Himalayan Safari Tales #5 – Uley Ethnic Resort, Uleytokpo

    Kargil is normally the night halt for most travelers from Srinagar to Leh. We, however, had other plans. Our plan was to travel past Kargil and camp at Uleytokpo, which is just short of 70 kms from Leh. The vehicles that were to pick us up from Kargil didn’t turn up. Telephone lines were down in Kargil for the past 3 days and we had no way to get in touch with the vehicles. So, in the middle of Kargil town, we remained cut-off. However, in less than an hour, Asif managed to get a 12-seater tempo traveler who agreed…

  • Places

    Five Monsoon Weekend Drives from Mumbai

    If getting out of Mumbai means Lonavala and Khandala for you, then read no further. Not that Lonavala and Khandala aren’t beautiful. They are indeed. But then, let us grow up. Here are five weekend monsoon getaways from Mumbai. 1. Go beyond Malshej Ghat. Malshejghat is a regular and hugely popular monsoon weekend getaway. Misty mountains and unlimited waterfalls. An MTDC resort facing the valley. Most people from Mumbai travel to Malshejghat via Kalyan for a day trip or a weekend trip. Here is another alternative: Hit the Mumbai–Pune expressway and take a left at Wadgaon to Chakan and then…

  • History - Nature's Wonders - Places

    Himalayan Safari Tales #4 – Srinagar to Kargil

    Most often during our travel experiences, taxi drivers turn good travel companions. Giving the local flavour to the many stories behind the places or simply by joining the conversations with their points of views or sometimes sporty enough to gauge the moods of the travellers and offering to take detours that might match their interest. This time however, we had a tad different experience. We had two vehicles for our group and a third vehicle joined with some other passengers and since the drivers knew each other, they decided to move as a convoy. A tightly packed schedule meant hurrying…

  • Places

    Himalayan Safari Tales #3 – Srinagar: The Bazaar and the Conversations

    “A few centuries before the Christ, the Athenians developed ‘agora’ as a place of palaver, long parley or conversation, which doubled as a location for exchanging goods and services. With some variation this pattern repeated across the ancient world. From Persia to India, market places came to be known as ‘bazar’, derived from the Pahlavi term ‘vacar’ or ‘baha-char’, meaning the ‘place of prices’. And yet the bazaar was as much a place for social connectedness as for striking a deal and determining the ‘price’” – from Bazaars, conversations and freedom by Rajni Bakshi The Dal lake by itself is…

  • Food - Places

    Himalayan Safari Tales #2 – Srinagar: The Calmness That Belies All

    For a valley city whose name symbolizes wealth and abundance, peace certainly was in not in abundance. Decades of strife, uncertainty, and violence perhaps has taken its toll. The calm and serene Dal lake perhaps belies all. The quite witness. Taking care of hundreds of families who are dependent on it. Colorful shikaras silently offering rides for the travelers. The shikaras, the house boats and the trade are still the main source of income. Dal lake lies in the catchment area in the Zabarwan mountain valley, which surrounds the lake on three sides and is a part of a natural…

  • Places

    Himalayan Safari Tales #1 – Srinagar: The Day After the Curfew

    Srinagar was waking up after intermittent curfew days. The roads were so crowded and jammed that it took more than an hour from the airport to the Dal lake. Everyone was in a hurry to get the work done and be back in the safety of their houses, for no one knew when the curfew would return. Buses were packed to the brim that many were even sitting on the roofs and hanging on to the ladders at the back. Army jawans tried helping the local traffic police in managing the traffic. But it was chaos mostly. We began our…

  • Arts & Culture - History - Places

    Jadhav Gadh. Exuding Old World Charm

    As we approach the entrance, the doorman ceremoniously lifts the bugle and plays. A little embarrassed, we enter the fort. More welcome ceremonies follow. A lady applies sandal paste on our foreheads while a gentleman waits with perfumed towels. Located at about 20-odd km from Pune, off the Pune-Saswad road, this fort-converted-hotel is run by the Orchid Group. An eighteenth century fort built by Pilaji Jadhavrao (a famous general of in the army of Chatrapathi Shahuji, grandson of Chatrapathi Shivaji), Jadhavgad is small and less splendorous compared to other Maratha forts. But it has a quaint charm and the redevelopment…

  • Arts & Culture - Fun - Places

    Of Faith & Creativity – Part II

    Most of us have grown up with the philosophy of seeing God in everything – in every stone, every tree, every human being, every animal and what not. Roadside temples are not anything new in India. We have earlier written about a tree with a slight resemblance to an elephant’s trunk turning into Ganpathi idol and a street side temple. (Of Faith & Creativity). This is another interesting version. A huge rock in the Matheran hills turning into another massive Ganpathi. Clever use of colours and artistic rendering have converted this huge rock into a divine statue complete with a…

  • History - Places

    A Toy Ride. A Joy Ride

    It’s in the long list for UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites. Whether it will get the heritage tag or not, the Matheran Light Railway is a fun ride as the small bogies laboriously climb up and down the hill. So when a friend and Mid-Day reporter decided to do a story on this to-be or not-to-be heritage rail, we decided to tag along. Being a Saturday, the general seats were all taken. So we went First Class, which is an eight-seater cabin with cushioned seats. Though not the fastest way to reach Matheran (meaning ‘wooded head’), a tiny hill station that…

  • Birdwatching - Nature's Wonders - Places

    Mumbai Winter Visitors Turn Pink

    By this time, they would’ve already set off to Kutch or getting ready for the journey. When we met them in December, they were busy feeding on the algae in the Sewri mudflats. Flamingos migrate to Maharashtra during winter after spending the breeding season in Kutch, Gujarat. Sewri, a port area in Mumbai, is one of their favourite hangouts. How did they choose to come to this derelict area?  Maybe, the rich algae found in the muddy tracts that get exposed during low tides. Feeding on these algae that have a carotenoid pigment, these migratory birds turn rich pink by…

  • Places

    The Enchanted Gardens @ Pune

    It is a hard-to-miss board—The Enchanted Gardens—on the Mumbai-Satara highway, just after the Express Way ends in Pune. We have passed this board many a time, each time postponing the visit. But during our recent drive to Jadhavghad, we dropped by and got enchanted, as the name suggests. Spread across 1,20,000 sq ft, Enchanted Gardens claims to be one of the largest nurseries in India. They also have a network of farms, totalling an area of 60 acres. The sheer variety of plants fascinated us. We obviously haven’t seen or heard about most of them. Many indoor, outdoor, flowering, and…

  • Places - Uncategorized

    More Than Meets the Eye

    This is not an automobile review blog. And we are not automobile experts to review a car. As travel lovers, the recent drive on Grande MK II came as a pleasant surprise. It’s a pleasant surprise because whenever we book a  vehicle for travel, we make our non-preference of Sumo clear to the travel agent. First thing that strikes us about the new Grande MK II is its majestic size. Park it near an Innova and see what we mean by majestic. Ok! Comparison with Innova might have a few eyebrows raising. All we want to convey is an image…

  • Birdwatching - Nature's Wonders - Sanctuaries

    Birds of Tadoba

    Tadoba has a rich bird life with over 160 varities either  residing or visiting seasonally. The main lake in the middle and couple of other lakes mean that there are a fair amount of water birds as well – Cormorants, herons, ibis, storks, varieties of ducks, bar-headed goose, buzzards, eagles, quails, purple swamphens, bronze winged jacana, lapwigs, common redshank, common and wood sandpipers and many more… A little cormorant by the side of the Tadoba lake (above) The red-wattled lapwig (above) Black Ibis (above) Green bee eater (above) We watched these three rose ringed parakeets (above) playing hide and seek.…

  • Fun - Sanctuaries

    Who Can Assure You a Tiger ?

    On our second safari at Tadoba, a few kilometers inside from the starting point, this  board welcomed us.  As if to temper our expectations. This was at the border of Tadoba range and Moharli range where there is a small settlement.  Soon after this however we did spot a tiger.

  • Places - Sanctuaries

    The Real Land of Tiger – Tadoba

    The year 2010, hopefully augurs well for us in travel. After the good start in the new year week, one of us had a solo trip to Bangkok, while the other had a solo to Coimbatore and Kerala. But the most awaited trip of January was to Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve (TATR) in Chandrapur district, Maharashtra. The planning had started in November itself. The tourism/forest department calls Tadoba the real land of tiger. Perhaps rightfully so. For the first time, we spotted the big cat. Albeit for a short while without giving us enough time for clicking. With multitudes of…

  • Places

    New Year Beginning With Star Gazing

    The year 2010 also began on a good note. After a packed last weekend of 2009, we were in Bangalore on the first weekend of 2010. Though this time, it was catching up with cousins whom we have not met for over 10 years and some friends after 5 years. That meant not much of travel. Yet, we did a little bit of star gazing – albeit a little different. We have never been to a planetarium – which most people would have visited in their school days.  The Nehru Planetarium in Bangalore was our destination on Saturday, January 2,…

  • Arts & Culture - History - Places

    Year-End Trips (2) – Mamallapuram

    Kanchipuram – Mahabalipuram (Mamallapuram) is barely 70 kms and is connected by good roads. Not a wise idea to combine both these places on the same day as you are unlikely to do justice to both the places. Mamallapuram is a 7th century port city built by Pallavas and is supposeed to be named after the Pallava King, Mamalla. Mamallapuram is classified as UNESCO World Heritage site. With some of the rock cut temples resembling the Buddhist/Jain architecture, it is believed that the Pallava kings bought artisans and sulptors from central India after they won over the Chalukyas. We unfortunately…

  • Arts & Culture - History - Places

    Year-End (2009) Trips – Kanchipuram

    The year 2009 ended on a good note with a packed weekend. We were back to Chennai after 5 years for a family get together. But we did manage to plug-in an active one-day travel. It is a matter of shame that we lived in Chennai for 7 years and not even once we visited Kanchipuram or Mahabalipuram. We were not in our elements then for sure. So it was Kanchipuram and Mahabalipuram. We planned the timings so that we will be at Kanchipuram Saravana Bhavan for breakfast. Kanchipuram is known as the city of temples and is one of…

  • Birdwatching

    Birding at Uran

    Most often, one misses the simple pleasures and beauties near home. We knew Uran had something to offer for bird watchers, but had never ventured. So in one of our short treks to Vyagreshwar, Nature Knights decided to pack in an early morning birding. And it was worth it. Ibises, coots, whistling ducks, bee eaters and many more unnamed birds gave us company 0n a winter morning.

  • Arts & Culture - Places

    Solapur, Chadder, and Fashion Ramps

    Solapur was once a bustling textile town. The Solapur chadder is famous even now, though the number of mills has dwindled and many of the looms have moved out of the town. We wanted to visit one of those looms and speak to a few people and made our enquries, but only to realise that there are only show rooms and not any mills/looms around the town. So we were directed to the largest and the most popular one – Pulgam Textiles. We were not disappointed for there were some unique cotton bedsheets. The chadder certainly has its charm, going…

  • Arts & Culture - Food - Fun

    Christmas Cake: A Heady Mix of Dry Fruits, Innocence, Wonder, and Laughter

    It’s already jingle bells time at the ITC Grand Central! Last week was the ‘cake mixing ceremony’ – mixing loads of dry fruits with spices, honey, and fruit extracts. The mix is let to ferment for a month or so, for baking those delicious plum cakes for Christmas. This year, the students of Akanksha Lower Parel Centre were invited for the cake mixing ceremony at the ITC Grand Central, Parel, Mumbai. Saroj maestro Ustad Amjad Ali Khan and his sons were the celebrity guests for the event.The kids were so thrilled and charged up that they managed to convince their…

  • Food - Places

    An Authentic Maharashtrain Fare

    Food cooked and served by women always has that special taste. We experienced this at Hotel Amantran at Solapur. The restaurant at Hotel Srikamal International where we stayed was undergoing renovation. The hotel manager gave directions for some good Maharashtrain fare and a certain Hotel Kamath for the typical Shetty food. We chose to have a Maharashtrian dinner. When we entered the hotel, it was a pleasant surprise to see women taking orders and serving. The semi-open kitchen showed women cooking too. Only mini thali and limited meals were available. We ordered one each and relished the soft chapathis, rice,…

  • Places - Sanctuaries

    Sanctuaries and Man-Animal Conflicts

    “This island has to be saved for its trees, it has to be saved for its animals, it is a part of a reserve forest, it belongs to a project to save tigers, which is paid for by people from all around the world.” Everyday, sitting here, with hunger gnawing at our bellies, we would listen to these words, over and over again. Who are these people, I wondered, who love animals so much that they are willing to kill us for them? Do they know what is being done in their names? Where do they leave, these people, do…