• Ilaveezhapoonchira, Kottayam, Kerala
    Hikes - Nature's Wonders - Places - Treks

    An Unplanned Hike to Nowhere!

    March 9, 2014 - By 

    The nephew and niece have a painting competition to attend at Pala, Kottayam. Mom wants to visit temples around Pala but could not go due to health issues so we decide to go. So, attired in clothes suited for visiting temple, we set out in the morning. And end up going for a hike, without reaching anywhere. That sums up our attempted hike to Ilaveezha-poonchira near Thodupuzha, Kerala. We finish the temple visits and reach back to Pala, pick the kids and their mother, and have lunch. Instead of driving back home, we head to Ilaveezhapoonchira, about 40 km from…

  • Greek Theatre Syracuse Italy
    Heritage - History - Places

    Syracuse: 2700 Years of History & Heritage

    February 14, 2014 - By 

    Four hours cannot do justice to 2,700 years of history for sure. One evening. That’s all we could spend in the historical city of Syracuse (or Siracusa) in Sicily, Italy, where Archimedes was born. The massive Greek Theatre, several palazzos and churches, and the Maniace Castle (Castello Maniace) in Syracuse represent the best of Greek, Roman, and Baroque architecture. The city’s architectural monuments have stood the test of time, surviving two earth quakes in 1542 and 1693 and bombings during the Second World War. Syracuse was bestowed a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2005. In the few hours we had…

  • Hoolongappar Gibbon Sanctuary
    Birdwatching - Flora - Nature's Wonders - People - Places

    The Primates and Other Surprises of Hoolongappar Gibbon Sanctuary

    February 9, 2014 - By 

    Our five-day trip to Kaziranga (by Nature India) had a day set aside for Hoolongappar Gibbon sanctuary. With so much being written and spoken about Kaziranga, the wildlife sanctuary remained the hero and we didn’t care too much about the Gibbon sanctuary near Jorhat, Assam. So very unlike of us, we didn’t do much research or reading on the Gibbon sanctuary. But nature has its own way of throwing surprises. ‘Pleasant’ is not the adjective. Enticing. Fascinating. Exciting. Surprising. What was originally a part of the vast forest ranges in the north east state of Assam and extending till Nagaland,…

  • Pugmarks Jungle Lodge Wayanad
    Hotels - People - Places

    Pugmarks Jungle Lodge: Nestled in the Wilderness

    January 5, 2014 - By 

    Darkness had fallen by the time we were in Mananthawady. As we passed the road to Kattikulam, the village was getting ready to sleep. Night-time visitors (read wildlife) would have been getting ready for their night-out. We reached the electric-fenced resort and instantly got charmed by the wilderness around. There couldn’t have been a better choice of stay than Pugmarks Jungle Resort as we explored Mananthawady and the surrounding attractions. Templatised resorts rarely tempt us. There were plenty of them to choose when we were planning our Wayanad trip. But we wanted a place that is more grounded and closer…

  • Adventure - Nature's Wonders - Places - Treks

    Irpu Falls: Crowded but Charming

    December 14, 2013 - By 

    Going to Irpu Falls was one of the spur-of-the-moment decisions that occur far too often in our trips. As with most of them, this too turned out to be a good one. Wayanad has plenty of waterfalls, so we did not consider Irpu in Coorg, Karnataka (close to the border of Wayanad) as a to-do destination. But we had time to kill till the safari starts at Tholpetty Wildlife Sanctuary, and Irpu is just about 10 km from Tholpetty. The road turns narrow and bumpy as we approached Irpu and contrary to our expectations, the parking lot was full. But we did not feel the crowd during the…

  • Hikes - Places

    Makkimala, a Hidden Gem of a Hill

    December 3, 2013 - By 

    Travelling with no pre-fixed itinerary leaves you with opportunities for impromptu visits to interesting places that are mostly known to locals only. We got a few such opportunities during our one-week in Wayanad. Makkimala hike was suggested to us by Gopa Varma, owner of Pugmarks Jungle Lodge. He and his friends had visited the place previous day and had a nice time. Thomas, our guide for the hike, waited for us at the roadside. He had taken half-a-day leave from his job as a driver to be our guide. The unremarkable mud track at the beginning does not give any…

  • People - Places

    The New Face of ‘Migration’

    November 17, 2013 - By 

    (This post was originally published at The True Pretender) We met Manoj at the Pugmarks Jungle Lodge in Wayanad during our stay there. As the service staff, he served us food, cleaned the rooms, carried our luggage, and was available on call all the time. His broken Malayalam made us a little curious. But he understood whatever we said in Malayalam. Manoj represents the new face of migration.  For a state whose people have been migrating to the Gulf since early 70s, this is like coming a full circle of sorts. Increased money flow to the state resulting in a consumer…

  • Wayanad Forest trail
    Places - Treks

    The ‘Hartal’ Hike in Wayanad

    November 11, 2013 - By 

    One week in Kerala. There has to be a ‘hartal’ or ‘bandh.’ During our one-week Wayanad trip, there was a ‘hartal’ in the district, to mark protest against Kasturi Rangan Report and/or Gadgil Committee Report on Western Ghats conversation policies. (More on this later.) Since this affected our travel plans, we were a little disappointed at first. But not for long. Our resort owner Gopa suggested a walk through the forests, paddy fields, and tribal villages to get a sense of the real Wayanad. He and his friend George, resort manager Shinoj, and a local farmer Karunan chettan took us…

  • Adventure - Nature's Wonders - Places - Treks

    Mighty Harischandragad and Magnificent Konkan Kada

    October 30, 2013 - By 

    We have heard a lot about Harischandragad and Konkan Kada. The former is a temple and hill fort at over 4,500 ft above sea level. At one end of the Harischandragad plateau, the land suddenly drops to over 1,800 ft. This semicircular cliff, Konkan Kada, offers an unhindered, spectacular view of plains all the way to Konkan. Sunset at Konkan Kada is a view to behold, so we were told. Harischandragad has been on our trekking bucket list for a few years. Last time when Nature Knights organised this trek, chickenpox stood in our way. This time, we did it!…

  • Circumetnea: Around Mount Etna, Sicily, Italy
    Places

    Circumetnea: Around Mount Etna

    October 12, 2013 - By 

    The little train chugs along the slopes of Mount Etna, one of the active volcanoes in Sicily, Italy. Passing quaint villages, you are treated to beautiful sights of orchards and vineyards flourishing in the fertile volcanic soil. As you climb up, it’s the grim site of black, hardened lava. But you can’t ignore the stark, somewhat frightening beauty of the terrain. Ferrovia Circumetnea (FCE) is a narrow-gauge railway line in the outskirts of Catania, Sicily. Starting from Borgo and ending in Riposto, it almost encircles the volcano Etna. Armed with Lonely Planet – Italy and a couple of words of…

  • Adventure - Nature's Wonders - Places - Treks

    Adventure of the Season − Siddhagad in Monsoons

    August 31, 2013 - By 

    A couple of years back when we did the Gorakhgad trek, we thought it was a mighty mountain. (Read about the Gorakhgad trek here – The Motely Crowd and Mighty Mountain). Mighty it was then. At that time, we had set our eyes on Siddhagad peak, seen at a distance, engulfed in dark clouds. Little did we realise then that Siddhagad (3223 ft) was taller than Gorakhgad (2137 ft). If Gorakghad was thrilling, Siddhagad was beyond that. Rains lashing with vengeance and water gushing down through the trail added to the excitement. Siddhagad is in the Malshejgat region, but along…

  • Jupuri Ghar, Kaziranga
    Birdwatching - Flora - Food - Hotels - Places - Sanctuaries

    stay @Jupuri Ghar

    August 9, 2013 - By 

    During our travels, more often than not we have seen that the state tourism resorts/hotels tend to be the best place to stay—they get the advantage of being an early mover and hence access to a prime location in the area. Though often not so luxurious or fancy, they tend to be very spacious—rooms as well as the property. Jupuri Ghar by Assam Tourism at Kaziranga too lived up to this promise. Tucked behind a small tea estate and abutting the forest is Jupuri Ghar with its 8 cottages and a nice restaurant. The cottages are laid around a central…

  • Dhoni Forests
    Adventure - Nature's Wonders - Places

    Romancing Rainforests: Never Enough (Dhoni Waterfalls, Kerala)

    July 20, 2013 - By 

    This monsoon, the craving to relish the nature’s magic goes up a notch every passing day. With no major trips planned, we try to make use of all possible weekends. Khodala happened like that. So was the trek inside the Sanjay Gandhi National Park to Mumbai’s highest point (more about it later). We manage to squeeze in a short getaway while on a 3-day trip to Kerala for a family function. A lazy Sunday morning at Palakkad. We get up late; relax with tea and newspapers; enjoy breakfast; and then comes the irresistible urge. The low ranges of the vast…

  • Koh Samui airport
    Airports - Places

    The ‘Leisure Airport’ at Koh Samui

    June 29, 2013 - By 

    (Also published in Skift) Like hotels/resorts are classified as ‘leisure,’ ‘spa,’ etc, if there is a classification for airports, then the Samui airport in Koh Samui might well be called as a leisure airport. Right from the time we hit the tarmac, the airport amused us. With thatched roofs, well-manicured green lawns and gardens close to the runway, it seemed that we landed in the midst of a resort. The next surprise was the electric- powered buggies that ferried the passengers from the flight to some of the thatched roofs, which happened to be the terminal. After that, everything we…

  • Adventure - Fun - Places

    The Road to Khodala

    June 26, 2013 - By 

    The road to Khodala is not paved with gold. Neither Khodala is a city of gold that awaits you. But for over 4 months in a year, when the sky brims with monsoon clouds, when the parched earth soaks up the rainwater and turns vibrant green, and when the hills and valleys are adorned with tiny streams and roaring waterfalls, the road to Khodala becomes much more than that. The best thing that can happen to someone itching to get out of the city on a Sunday morning while the clouds waiting to burst is perhaps Khodala!! Not known to…

  • Adventure - Nature's Wonders - Places - Treks

    Triund: Walk Above the Clouds

    June 5, 2013 - By 

    It’s time to get ready for monsoon treks. What better time than now to reminisce one of the awesome monsoon treks we did! Triund in McLeod Ganj is a popular trek in all seasons. It was pouring when we did this trek. About 4 hours of walk and climb, peering at the path ahead through raindrops, trying to admire the beauty of the misty valley below, listening to the guides explaining how seasons change the look of this wonderful landscape—painting it red when the rhododendrons bloom, spreading a white sheet when it snows, and of course turning it all green…

  • Baruah Bhavan, Guwahati
    Heritage - Hotels - Places

    Baruah Bhavan – A Charming Villa; a Non-Hotel Hotel

    April 7, 2013 - By 

    There was no doorbell to ring. So we peeped into the narrow walkway and spotted a boy having tea. Acknowledging us with a smile, he came swiftly, took charge of our luggage, guided us to our room. That warm smile was the first of several we were offered during our stay in Assam. Soon, the manager, Mr Kalita, too came to us with an even broader smile. We landed at Guwahati a day earlier for our trip to Kaziranga. At first, we had thought of staying at one of the regular hotels at Paltan Bazaar. Then Baruah Bhavan’s listing on…

  • Places

    The Accidental Sculptor of Kamakhya Temple

    March 28, 2013 - By 

    There were not too many ‘must-do’ things in Guwahati, barring the walk we wanted to do by the mighty Brahmaputra. Kamakhya temple was a reluctant addition—suggested by some web sites and the enthusiastic staff of Baruah Bhavan, where we stayed. Getting around Guwahati was anyway easier with plenty of local buses. Perched on a hilltop (Nilachal or the Blue Hills), Kamakhya temple is the main temple among a group of temples scattered across the hill. Considered to be a place of Tantric worship, the temple dates back to 10 BC and survived the attack of Mangols and later the Mughals.…

  • Arts & Culture - Heritage - History - People - Places

    Mummy: The Inside Story

    February 20, 2013 - By 

    Nesperennub, a priest at the temple of Amun-Ra, had severe dental abscesses, which would have given him terrible pain when he was alive. He had a small cavity on his skull, above his left eye. He was a man of high status and belonged to an influential clan at Thebes, a city in ancient Egypt. Nesperennub lived in ancient Egypt, around 1550–1069 BC. He passed away when he was middle-aged. But he has come to India and will be here for one more month. The mummy of Nesperennub in its cartonnage case The mystery of Egyptian mummies has always puzzled…

  • Arts & Culture - Fun - Places

    Kala Ghoda 2013 Diaries – #2 Danger Art

    February 15, 2013 - By 

    Skulls, skulls, and more skulls. This year’s KGAF  was dotted with skulls, most of them made of electronic waste.   This is one of the seven Kapala’s totems installed at KGAF 2013. These totems by Sukant Panigrahy invoke awareness of the dangers of electronic waste. Of the seven, six were made using electronic waste. One totem was made of organic materials or natural waste.  

  • Arts & Culture - Food - Fun - History - Places

    Goa Carnaval 2013: Fun, food, and Much More

    January 30, 2013 - By 

    Goa Carnaval 2013 is almost here! The 4 days of fun, frolic and, feast is set to open on February 9 and will last until February 12. But for foodies and cultural buffs, celebrations begin a day earlier. Food & Cultural Festival, to be held parallelly with the Carnaval (Portuguese for carnival), is slated to be from February 8. Goa is known mostly for its beaches. All these years, tourism as well as all celebrations happened in and around beaches. But this time, there is going to be a conscious effort by the department of tourism to remove the focus from the beaches and…

  • Places

    Lavasa: First Impressions: Planned Hill City or Planned Destruction

    January 1, 2013 - By 

    Disclaimer: We are not experts in ecology, architecture, or town planning. This critical view is to be read as a layman’s perspective. First impression, unfortunately, is not the best impression in this case. Lavasa has aroused our curiosity when we heard about it first—especially as the ‘first planned hill city of India.’ For Indians, there cannot be any hill station without colonial baggage. So this sounded pretty interesting, but we never managed to visit Lavasa. When controversies erupted on this project, we were keenly reading all the news and reports. Finally, we managed to get a glimpse of Lavasa. While…

  • Places

    The Unassuming Panshet

    December 30, 2012 - By 

    Outlook Travellers’ guide on weekend trips from Mumbai notes Panshet as one of the places around Pune. A place where you can’t do anything. Just be there. That’s what we did indeed. That Panshet has an MTDC resort made it an easy choice of destination. But the real sweet spot was not that, but dams—which always held our fascination and never fail to arise within us mixed feelings:  fear, awe, delight, and many more. The MTDC resort is conveniently located on a hillock between the two dams—Panshet and Varasgaon. Backwaters of both lie almost parallel and run into kilometres. And…

  • Adventure - Heritage - History - Places

    The Cliffhanger @Takmak Tok

    December 9, 2012 - By 

    Hang at about 1000 ft and have a 360-degree view of the landscape down. Thrilling and spine-chilling! Slowly move down until you reach a ledge at 300 feet. One misstep and it is a straight drop of 700 feet. Carefully trudge along the ridge and trek back to the top. That’s all about rappelling at Takmak Tok, Raigad. Raigad Fort, near Mahad, Maharashtra, was Shivaji’s capital. It was at Raigad that he was titled Chathrapathi. Attacked and destroyed by the British, the fort is now in ruins. The queen’s quarters, durbar hall, and marketplace are still discernible among the ruins.…

  • Flora - Nature's Wonders - Places - Sanctuaries

    An Impromptu Journey to Wild West(ern Ghats)

    November 16, 2012 - By 

    When Western Ghats tempts you with its grandness, it’s a challenge to resist it. We happily give in almost all the time. Once spread across a good part of Kerala and host to many endangered species of flora and fauna, Western Ghats is now dwindling, forcing UNESCO to tag many parts of it as natural heritage areas. This Diwali season’s Western Ghats delight for us was Athirapally Waterfalls and beyond. After the Nilgiris, the Western Ghats take a break at Palakkad gap, the natural plains that cuts the mountains and connects Kerala and Tamil Nadu. And beyond the gap, toward…

  • Flora - Nature's Wonders - Places

    The Ethereal Kaas

    September 12, 2012 - By 

    Lalu’s ears. Sita’s tears. American softhead. Coat button. Mickey mouse—funny they may sound but these are some of the ethereal beauties of Kaas Plateau, near Satara in Maharashtra. Lying underground for most of the year, these plants pop their heads up as soon as monsoon drenches the red laterite soil with elixir of life. Home to more than 400 varieties of plants, Kaas is one of Unesco’s World Natural Heritage sites where nature works overtime to weave a carpet of oft-changing colours. As the monsoon recedes, the plateau gets carpeted with a million flowers—blue Sita’s tears, purple jambhala, white pan-gend,…

  • People - Places

    So What if the Water Pipe Leaks

    August 12, 2012 - By 

    At Keylong Mall Street, a kid enjoying playing with the water jet that leaks out of pipe line. On our way from Sarchu to Rohtang, we had a night’s halt at Keylong, the head quarters of Lahul Spiti district. In the evening we decided to take a stroll through the mall street. This was just outside a cloth store.  

  • Places

    Goa, but not the Beaches

    July 30, 2012 - By 

    Go to Goa. Spend a week. But not a single beach. Then that could have been the new definition of Original Sin. But that’s a sin worth committing. This time we didn’t spend a week. And we did go to many beaches. But we also explored the other side of Goa a little bit. The one that most tourists give a skip. Unless he or she is fascinated with hills and forests. Overlooking Goa’s large coastline and covering a good part of the state is its share of the Western Ghats eco system. Bordering Maharashtra and Karnataka, these lush rainforests…

  • Heritage - History - Places

    Traipsing Around Taormina

    July 15, 2012 - By 

    A building at the top of a hill by the coast of Ionian sea. Sitting on its balcony or verandah, the likes of D H Lawrence, Guy de Maupassant, John Steinbeck, and Francis Ford Coppola would have delighted in the sight of the mesmerizing blue sea below. For, this air seemed to have refreshed many a creative souls. And, it is not surprising. After taking over the control of this small town in 200 B.C., the Romans seem to have discovered its quaint beauty and made this a holiday destination. Taormina is a small town in coastal Sicily. Being ruled…

  • History - Places

    Daman – A Weekend by the Beach

    March 24, 2012 - By 

    Covering 150 km in just about 2 hours was not something we planned for. We didn’t expect our impromptu driving trip to Daman to be such a cool drive.  The Mumbai –Ahmedabad highway has been made six-lane with flyovers at every possible junction. It’s almost 4 years since our last road trip through this road and at that time, pot holes in every possible shape decorated the road. This was meant to be a laid back trip. Drive to Daman, find a decent beach-facing place to stay. Have a relaxed evening. Read something. Also attempt to write. In between, do…

  • Nature's Wonders - Places

    Chill Out at Sarchu

    March 15, 2012 - By 

    A popular camping site, Sarchu lies at the border of Jammu & Kashmir and Himachal Pradesh and belongs to HP. It is also the preferred overnight stopover between Manali and Leh. Lying between the snow-clad mountains and by the side of the Tsarap Chu river, the Mulkila campsite was spectacular, to say the least. We landed in Sarchu very late in the night after a long journey from Tso Moriri via the Moray plains. It was freezing cold and pitch dark as the place is not electrified. After a dinner of hotsoup, rotis and vegetables, we snuggled under the heavy…

  • People - Places

    Anandwan – The Forest of Joy

    February 27, 2012 - By 

    Travelling around, seeing new places and people is certainly joyful. But it has another remarkable aspect as well as impact. At times, we are reminded of the mightiness of nature, the timelessness of the universe, and how insignificant we human beings are in this grand play. At other times, there are instances when we stood in awe at the immense capabilities of human beings in dreaming, creating, and inspiring generations to come. A reminder that all of us have the power to create and change the world for better. And a sharp nudge to some of us who often crib…

  • Arts & Culture - Heritage - History - Places - Publications - the great driving challenge

    Pick Your Escape Route (Mid-Dday Feb 02, 2012)

    February 11, 2012 - By 

    If you choose to do one trip a month for the whole year, that is 12 short trips in an year. When Mid-day asked us to give us an all-year itinerary in Maharashtra for travel lovers to explore, we were only happy to do so. It was late January and so we came up with a 11 month schedule. Here it goes. The full text February: Koyna Valley (Koyna Nagar) Why should be here: Far away from the maddening crowd. Without the trappings of any hill station. Spend a quite weekend in the MTDC resort or a couple of other…

  • Arts & Culture - Heritage - History - Places

    The Red Town of Karnataka – Pattadakkal

    January 15, 2012 - By 

    In the middle of nowhere in rural Karnataka is the remains of (perhaps) a glorious past. Where nicely chiseled stones and beautiful sculptures tell you million stories. Hundreds of unnamed craftsmen with their skillful hands and genius minds lived and died for their kings and queens, while building and leaving behind stupendous architectural marvels that will remind us not of their glories, but of their rulers. As we wander through the wonder that is Pattadakkal, we imagined the scene where hundreds of workers in the rumble and tumble creating poetry out of shapeless rocks. Pattadakkal (Pattadakalu in Kannada), also known…

  • Arts & Culture - Heritage - History - Places

    In Search of the Hidden Kadamba Gods

    December 31, 2011 - By 

    What excites us most in our trips is the last-minute additions or diversions in the plan. At Belgaum, through a common friend, we met a businessman who has interests in history and architecture. And he suggested that we check out Halashi and gave the directions to reach there. Obviously, not many people have heard about the place. Halashi is a small village about 42 km from Belgaum. At 27 km from Belgaum city, on the Belguam-Dandeli road is Khanapur town. Halashi is about 15 km from Khanapur. With the western ghats as backdrop, the road to Halashi is scenic. Halashi…

  • Food - Heritage - History - Hotels - Places

    Ragusa – Welcome to Sicily

    December 11, 2011 - By 

    An old Italian lady who speaks only Italian, a young Italian settled in Switzerland who could speak English and an Indian couple.  All in a small town in Sicily, at an almost-deserted bus terminus. A rain-drenched evening that welcomed darkness without embracing twilight. We started experiencing the warmth of Italian hospitality right after we got down at the upper Ragusa bus terminal. We had booked a hotel at Ragusa Ibla, the old city. The untimely rain meant we had to find shelter in a small shed at the terminal. We asked a lady for directions to the hotel but she…

  • Nature's Wonders - Places

    Make Your Own Road – More (Moray) Plains

    November 13, 2011 - By 

    Ladakh and the Himalayas never cease to excite and surprise us. Bidding adieu to the Tso Moriri wetlands and its lovely cranes and bar-headed geese, we set out to Sarchu. Before Sarchu enthralls us, we find thrill and awe en route! A plateau at a height of 4,000 m, flanked by mountains. The road is what we make our way through. A driver’s delight and dare! We were at More (Mor-ay) Plains, the world’s highest plateau.  This section stretches more than 50 km. Vehicles at times run parallel, spewing dust all over. A lone biker speeds off to nirvana. The…

  • Gokak Water Falls, Karnataka
    Nature's Wonders - Places

    Fast. Furious. Gokak

    September 25, 2011 - By 

    Every trip has interesting unplanned detours. This time, for our 5-day Karnataka trip, we had kept the itinerary completely open. Only return tickets from Belgaum to Mumbai were booked. We had some broad idea of the places we want to visit, but ‘when’ and ‘how’ to visit were left to be decided during the trip. So, after Badami and nearby places, before hitting Belgaum, we decided to take a detour. We had the luxury of time. A long day on road with multiple modes of transport followed. Badami to Bagalkote by state transport bus. Bagalkote to Yaragatti again by bus.…

  • Mahakuta, Badami, TWaC
    Arts & Culture - Heritage - History - Places

    Mahakuta, Badami

    September 25, 2011 - By 

    An ancient temple complex at about 15 km from Badami, Mahakuta is part of the travel circuit of Badami–Aihole–Pattadakkal. Surrounded by hills with bushy forests, the complex was built by the Chalukyas and is the seat of Shaivite faith. The complex has a large number of small- and medium-sized temples scattered around a pond (or a small lake – Vishnu Pushkarni). Only one of the temples has daily poojas. Since we visited the place around mid-morning and not during any festivals, there was hardly anyone and was very peaceful. Some of the temple ruins were on the hill in the…

  • History - Nature's Wonders - Places

    The Chalukya Heartland – Badami

    September 25, 2011 - By 

    Some times the history, the geography, the weather and the people of a place adds to the dynamics of a travel experience, often enriching it. That’s what happened to us at Badami. After being to Ajanta, Ellora, Kanheri, Pandavleni and the Elephanta cave temples, we have remained overawed by the sheer ability of human beings to ‘create.’ Intricate carvings, artworks, massive lifelike statues, astounding temples carved out of rock … all thousands of years back, without any sophisticated tools and technologies. Badami was no different and only added to that awe. The carvings were fuller and realistic, perhaps because of…

  • Nature's Wonders - Places

    If Pangong Is a Dream, Tso Moriri Is Ecstacy

    August 4, 2011 - By 

    Elated after the rafting on the Indus, sad to leave Leh, but with vibrant anticipation of what lies ahead, we set out for further journey travel through the incredible landscape. Dry. Arid. Cold. And no habitation for miles and miles. Tso Moriri was the destination for the day. That meant getting back to Leh from the Sangam (Indus–Zanskar) and covering another 205 km. The drive was pretty hard through mostly non-existent roads. Passing some remote villages, we reached the Mahe check post, here there was security check and verification of permits. Beyond the check post, it was once again trusting…

  • Nature's Wonders - Places

    River Rafting @ Indus

    August 4, 2011 - By 

    We woke up on day five of our Himalayan safari brimming with excitement. Rafting on the Indus was the highlight of the day. Sadly, our last day in Leh, too. We had been following the course of Indus and just got to dip our feet in the river on the way from Srinagar to Kargil. Rafting started at Indus, about a few kilometers outside Leh; the destination being the confluence of Indus and Zanskar, which we had viewed from top on the way to Leh from Uley Topko. We were greeted in the raft by the raft guide by splashing…

  • Places

    Pangong Lake

    July 18, 2011 - By 

    The descent from Chang La reveals a stark landscape that brings awe and fear. Snow-clad mountains again turn dry and arid. The sandy river bed reminds of a desert. The long, winding roads are often breached by the brooks formed by melting snow. Camps of Changpa nomads are seen on the slopes. These nomads rear yak, sheep, goats and horses. Yak milk (rather nak milk, the correct name for the female ones) is used to make cheese and the goats are sheared for the prized cashmere wool. On the way to the Lake, at Darbuk, is a memorial to Indian…

  • Nature's Wonders - Places

    Chang La

    July 17, 2011 - By 

    Though we were on the lap of the mighty Himalayas for four days, snow was beyond our reach. We had longingly watched the glaciers from afar on our way from Srinagar to Leh. Our wish to play in snow was finally granted at Chang La or Chang Pass. At 17,586 ft, Chang La is the third highest motorable road in the world, the first and second being Khardung La, on the Leh–Nubra Valley road, and Tanglang La, on the Leh–Manali road, respectively. En route to Pangong Lake, past the Shey village, Thikse Monastery, take a left turn at the military…

  • Nature's Wonders - Places

    Jog Falls / Linganamakki Dam

    June 26, 2011 - By 

    Lashing rains. Howling wind. Western ghats can’t get better (and dangerous) than in the monsoons. We were on the Sirsi–Jog falls leg of our Western-Ghats-on-road exploration. Jog Falls is the highest waterfall in India. The Sharavathy river takes a roaring plunge over 250 meters to bottom without any breaks (hence untiered). The river splits into four streams and each of the falls are named Raja, Roarer, Rocket, and Rani. Jog Falls is an experience—one that words refuse to come out to explain it. It is mighty, scary, heavenly, the works! On one side is the thunderously roaring water falling to…

  • History - Places

    Lesser-Known Delhi – Mehrauli Archaeological Park

    June 26, 2011 - By 

    It was William Dalrymple’s ‘The Last Mughal’ that triggered our curiosity about the history of Delhi. Not that we were not aware of Delhi’s historical significance. Unfortunately, Delhi brings to our mind all its negatives—lack of safety, extreme heat or cold and the like. When we did our first ever trip to Delhi as ‘travellers,’ we realised 3-4 days is not just enough to explore the city and experience its history. Even as the regular must-see destinations filled up our itinerary, we were on the lookout for the not-so-common destinations. That’s how we stumbled upon the Mehrauli Archeological Park. Being…

  • Places

    Grassroutes: Connecting Rural and Urban India

    May 5, 2011 - By 

    A beaming youth welcomes us to Purushwadi, applying red sindoor on our foreheads and adorning our heads with the typical Maharashtrian headgear, the Gandhi topi. Each gets a flower, too. We are at Purushwadi for the two-day Navratra celebration, a part of the rural tourism initiatives by Grassroutes. After the sleepy journey on the early morning Kasara local, the jeep ride to the tribal village Purushwadi in Bhandardhara excites us as the jeep leaves the highway and takes the country roads. Traversing the meandering roads becomes more thrilling when we climb on to the top of the jeep. We try…

  • Birdwatching - Nature's Wonders - Places

    8 hours. 100+ Different Birds. Bliss…

    February 27, 2011 - By 

    “My heart was brimming with the longing: to travel all those miles, sometimes nonstop, and come to your place. The urge was so strong, I couldn’t resist it. Oh! Just thinking about wallowing in the cool waters, relishing the scrumptious food aplenty, meeting friends from across the world, made me do a little jig. But where did it all go? I thought I lost my way. Hell no! I am at the right spot, but the marshy expanse of water is no where in sight. A few early birds were hanging around. Where do we go now after having flown…

  • Submarine Museum Vizag
    History - Places

    The Submarine Museum

    February 10, 2011 - By 

    As kids, like many of us, we were awed by the concept of submarine – something that can travel under the water. And we were under the impression that submarines are a 20th century invention. Yes, the modern submarines were made in later half of 20th century. But efforts to travel under water have been made as early as 325 BC. (A 16th-century Islamic painting depicting Alexander the Great being lowered in a glass submersible. From Wikipedia) Museums have the ability pull us back into the past. The displays recreate history and invoke awe and wonder. Two back-to-back museum visits…

  • Pai Brothers Thattukada
    Food - People - Places

    Dosas. Only 36 Varieties Available

    January 16, 2011 - By 

    What do ‘Volvo’, ‘Bheeman’, ‘Paper egg butter’, ‘Navanandana’, ‘Duck Lasoon’ and ‘Ruby Pai’ have in common ? Seemingly unrelated? Not until you visit the famed ‘Pai Brothers Thattukada’ in Cochin (Kochi or Ernakulam). These all different dosas among the fast food joint’s 36 varieties of dosas. The only place in the world one can get such varied types of dosas. Spending the New Year night away from home meant more travels for us in 2010. Without planning for it, in 2011 New Year also we were not at our home. Hopefully this year also, we will be footloose. The first…