Travel With a Couple

The Great Indian Bustard didn’t reveal itself to us. But our birding experience at Nannaj Bird Sanctuary wasn’t disappointing. We spotted many other birds (don’t ask for names, though we went there armed with A Field Guide to the Birds of India) and as a bonus, saw two wolves chasing blackbucks.

Nannaj Bird Sanctuary, officially called as Maldhok Bird Sanctuary or GIB Bird Sanctuary, is at 25-odd km from Solapur, Maharashtra. It is home to the endangered Great Indian Bustard (GIB) and is one of the few places where it is still spotted. Nannaj was declared a bird sanctuary in 1979 to protect GIB (Maldhok in Marathi).

This vast grassland also welcomes a few migratory birds, though we didn’t spot any as it was not the season. The road from Solapur to Nannaj is bordered by grasslands for a few kilometers. We got glimpses of several birds on these tracts as well. The sanctuary has a good population of black bucks and we watched a few herds going about their daily lives.

Unlike other bird sanctuaries, you are not allowed to move around freely in the core area of Nannaj. At a 100-odd meters from the gate, there is a hut (brick-work structure) with peep holes and fitted with benches and desks for observing and capturing the life outside. You are not permitted to go beyond this hut. This space provides a perfect hiding place to observe birds and animals without disturbing their peace. There is also a watch tower near the gate.

Since we went there during Diwali, the watch tower and the hut were locked. The forest guards were not around. To our luck, we met an avid bird watcher and wildlife enthusiast, Vishal Jadhav from Pune. Being a regular visitor, he had managed to get the key to the hut from the forest department the previous day. We joined him in the hut and got a lot of information about Nannaj’s wildlife and some photography tips from him. Thanks Vishal, for your friendly gestures.

We went to the sanctuary thrice. On the last day, we spotted two wolves chasing blackbucks. We waited for some time for the drama to unfold, but had to leave as it was getting late to start our journey back to Mumbai.

The only stay option near the sanctuary is the forest rest house. It’s hard to get accommodation there as you have to get permission from Pune Forest Office. Nearest teashops and restaurants are one kilometer away in Nannaj village. If you want to spend a few hours in the sanctuary, stock up enough water and snacks. We stayed in a hotel in Solapur and drove to Nannaj thrice.

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Nannaj is 25 kms from Solapur (Maharashtra)on the Solapur-Barshi road. Solapur is 404 kms from Mumbai via Pune

Mahabaleshwar. Just as the rain recedes. The last few days of whispering between clouds and the hills.

In the past three years or so, we have visited a few places in Maharashtra. One thing that has been common in many of these visits was MTDC ( Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation) resorts that offer reasonable boarding and lodging. We have now become a fan of MTDC resorts albeit it’s difficult to get accommodation without advance booking.

(Mahabaleshwar)

MTDC is present in most of the important tourist places in Maharashtra. Simple and basic accommodation. Clean toilets. No fancy stuff. Will fit any backpackers / travel lovers’ budget. Some of these resorts are leased out to private contractors, who have to pay a certain rent for the building and a share of revenue. In some cases, only the restaurants are contracted out.

(Mahabaleshwar)

But food certainly is not a gourmet’s delight. If you are a foodie and would like to give an equal weightage to the food experience, MTDC might not satisfy you always.

As a first mover, MTDC’s resorts occupy the prime locations in these places.

MTDC resort at Mahabaleswhar is in a sprawling estate with accommodations of various types.

(Lonar)

The resort at Lonar, (the only lodging place in Lonar) overlooks the crater. This resort is fairly new.

Ajanta has two resorts – one of the luxury type and the other, a basic one.

Raigad has many old-style cottages, but recently renovated.

(Harihareshwar)

Harihareshwar resort is set very close to the beach, flanked by beach almost on two sides and a hillock on the third side. Almost all the rooms are cottages and pretty cool.

The resort at Koyna Nagar offers beautiful view of the Koyna lake from top.

(Bordi)

Bordi resort opens to the beach itself.

Pench (Nagpur) is now privatized, but still offers the MTDC comforts and is the only accommodation available at Pench, Maharashtra.

(Pench-Sillari)

Amboli resort borders the forest

More after we visit the remaining ones.

This sounds very pessimistic. Yes, we lost our optimism after a trip to Mahabaleshwar recently. We were there in the last week of September. Being off-season, it wasn’t crowded at all.

But the amount of plastic waste strewn around was shockingly beyond our imagination. Plastic bottles, cups, wafer packages, pan packets, beer bottles … Every tourist spot, main streets – virtually every nook and corner. Even the back-of-beyond places were not spared. While tourists were there at the common sight-seeing points even during off-season, most seemed to give a miss to Connaught Peak point. As per our usual practice of looking for places less-explored, we climbed up to this point through the forest trail. The pathways and the peak remained thick with vegetation. However, the beauty of the landscape was marred by plastic cups and beer bottles. There were even broken pieces of plastic speed-breakers.

One evening, we went for a walk to the Polo ground, which was closer to the MTDC resort. Just outside the ground were a narrow stream and a culvert. Tied to one of the branches of a tree near the stream was a big plastic carry bag, full of disposable plates and left-over lunch. A similar one was left on the ground. Will someone come and dispose it off properly?

We can’t but feel pessimistic.